Weekly Awards

Biggest Mouth - Oscar

Best Mug Shot - Toby

Class Couple - Mrs. Kitty, Cali & Toeby

Cutest Selfies - 
Norka with Xander (left) & Coach (right)

Audra & Sutton

No One Ever Told Him It's Not Polite To Tell Secrets - Roscoe
 

Rabies, Bordetella & DHPP Vaccinations - The What & The Why

Much like keeping our kids up to date on vaccinations, it is equally important that we give our pets preventative measures to getting sick. Us humans stay up to date on our rabies vaccines, and take the yearly flu shot as well, so it only makes sense that we do the same with our dogs. Any reputable doggy daycare will require you to show proof of 3 vaccinations - rabies, bordetella and distemper (DHPP) - before your dog can join in the fun. Have you ever been curious as to why exactly these three are required? Read on to find out!

The rabies vaccination is considered a core vaccination. Rabies can be contracted by wild animals, house pets, even humans, and is almost always fatal. By vaccinating your pet against the disease, you are adding another safeguard for yourself and family as well.

Dogs can contract rabies from a bite by an infected animal - usually bats, foxes, skunks or raccoons. The virus can lay dormant for up to 1 month, but once symptoms start showing they will develop quickly. Click HERE to see a full list of warning signs and symptoms of rabies.

Vaccination - The initial rabies vaccine can be given to puppies that are at least 12 weeks old. After the first shot, there is a booster 1 year later, and then follow up shots are given every 3 years.

The bordetella vaccination is for kennel cough, or the common canine cold. It is not a core vaccine, so be prepared to ask for it if you plan on taking your dog to doggy daycare, or even boarding them overnight at a vet’s office. Kennel cough is characterized by a harsh, hacking cough, but other than that your dog might not act sick. It can take anywhere from 2 to 14 days for symptoms to show, and usually goes away on its own in anywhere from 4 to 10 days. Usually the cough will resolve itself without antibiotics. If the dog is showing a loss of appetite or having trouble breathing or any of the symptoms listed HERE, then you should head to the vet to pick up antibiotics.

The problem with kennel cough is that it spreads incredibly quickly, and can be transferred just by touching a contaminated surface. Dogs who show even a hint of a hacking cough should be sent home from daycare, and kept home until all symptoms are gone. Young puppies and older dogs are especially at risk to catching kennel cough, because their immune systems aren’t as prepared to handle the extra work. If a puppy contracts kennel cough it can easily turn into pneumonia.

Vaccination - For young puppies, there is an intranasal vaccine that can be given as young as 3 weeks of age. There is also a shot that can be given at 8 weeks old, with a follow up booster at 12 weeks old. Both of these vaccines last for 1 year.

Canine distemper is the last for which dogs must be vaccinated, and is also a core vaccine. Distemper is a contagious disease which affects a dog’s nervous and respiratory systems, and digestive tract. There is no cure, and so getting the vaccination is incredibly important. Distemper can be contracted by contact with an infected animal - the virus can travel through the air and contaminate surfaces just be landing on them. Although there is no cure, dogs can survive distemper, and once they have completely recovered they no longer carry the virus.

Click HERE for a complete description of the disease.

Vaccination - The distemper vaccination is commonly given in a vaccine cocktail, called DHPP for short.

D = canine distemper

H = Hepatitis

P = Parvovirus

P = Parainfluenza

Puppies get this shot as a series at 8, 12 and 16 weeks of age, followed up by a booster 1 year later. For adult dogs, this shot lasts 3 years.

Each of the three shots runs between $15 - $25 at your local vets office.

Weekly Awards

"Is That What I'll Look Like When I'm Bigger?" - Sadie & Finn

Most Well Behaved Students

Best Smile - Ziva

Are Those Ears Real?? - Auggie

Most Likely to Scare a Little Kid - Hailey

Best Puppy Kiss - Luca

Tricks & Techniques - Crate Training 101

If you bring home a puppy, crate training can be relatively easy. Puppies are very impressionable, and by setting them up in the crate at night from the beginning, he won’t have any reason to dislike it. However, what happens if your puppy is a little stubborn, or if you adopt an older dog that’s never been seen a crate? We’ve heard stories of dogs breaking apart crates, scratching open the doors, or making such an incredible racket that the owner couldn’t stand it and let them out. 

So what can you do? I first talked about desensitization a few months ago, a technique that can be perfect for acclimating dogs to the crate. While this technique can take some time, it will result in a dog who actually looks forward to his crate time.

Here's Sterling, hanging out at Pet U during a brief break!

Ready, set, train!

Desensitization works in steps. You start off slowly and with no pressure, so that there is only room for improvement and no way for the dog to fail.

1. The first step is to set the crate out in the middle of the room while you and your dog hang out together. Have a blanket and a toy inside, leave the door open, and let him sniff around. If he ignores it, fine. If he sniffs it, walks around it, or enters it, give him lots of praise! After only a few minutes, the session can be over. The idea is to do this a couple times over the first day or two just for a few minutes each time.

2. Measure your dog’s progress; after he has grown comfortable with the idea of the crate, turn it up a notch. Put his food in the crate for each meal, and allow him to go in at his own pace. Remember, during these first few days everything is at the dog’s own speed; we are not pushing or forcing anything, just giving lots of praise when he responds correctly.

3. After a day or two of feeding him in his crate, move on to shutting him in the crate, just for a few minutes. Keep a blanket and a toy inside, and lure him in with treats. Close the door and walk out of the room. As this will most likely be completely new for him, let him settle in on his own. 

If he barks, whines or rattles the door, just ignore him. Many owners don't realize that even by reprimanding bad behavior with “No!”, you are still essentially rewarding him. Dogs hate being ignored, and so not giving a reaction is the ultimate correction to them.

After he settles down, go back over with treats and plenty of praise! Let him out of the crate - training time is over for the moment. Do this a few times a day over the next few days, gradually increasing the time he is left in the crate. When he is in the crate for longer intervals, always go in with treats as soon as he calms down, and then back away again. Remember, always end the session on a positive note, when he is quiet and calm in his crate.

4. Finally it's time for the big test - having him sleep in the crate for the first time. The key to this going well is having a very TIRED dog by bedtime. Give him extra playtime and exercise during the day, and plan on feeding him 4 hours before you want him in the crate. Give him plenty of bathroom breaks so you are confident he won’t need to be let out until morning.

Wait to put your dog in the crate until all of the family members are going to bed as well. This way, he won’t feel jealous watching all of you from behind locked bars. Encourage him into the crate with treats, and praise him when you lock the door.

The key to making progress the first night is not to let him out until the morning, even (especially) if he whines or barks. You can praise him or give him a treat if he’s quiet, but make sure you completely ignore him if he’s whining.

5. It may take your dog a few nights to adjust to his new sleeping pattern. Just remember to always make sure that the crate is a positive experience - never use it as punishment, or you will undermine all of your hard training.

TIP - What if you've already attempted to crate train your dog, and the result is one who can scratch and claw his way out of their with the best of them? You're best bet is to go back and focus on step 3. Start with just minutes at a time, letting him out as soon as she settles down. Praise him, pet him, play with him, and show that training time is over. 

After you can confidently leave him in for a few minutes quietly, try leaving him in for 10 minutes. Again, don't just lock him in the crate and walk away. Go just outside the room where he can't see you - let him whine, bark, and scratch at the door. The second he is quiet, give him a treat, then leave the room again. Keep stretching the time until he is comfortable quiet for an hour or so, and then move on to step 4.

Good luck, and ask us at Pet U if you have any questions!

Weekly Awards

Most Improved - Mamba
This girl couldn't even be with other dogs when she first started coming to us. Now look at her - surrounded by daycare dogs and staff, and loving it!

Best Balancing Act - Prancer & Barkley

Twins Separated at Birth - Chazz (left) & Barkley (right)

Best Puppy Eyes - Jax

The One Who Had the Most Exciting First Day of School Ever - Auggie

Class Valedictorian - Toeby

Breed Profile - West Highland Terrier

Last week we had an adorable West Highland Terrier puppy join the group! Trying to take pictures of him was a little difficult since he is so small and squirmy, which is right on par if you plan on adopting one of these hardy little dogs.

Don't mind Bella, the killer robot dog, in the background :) 

The Westie is a compact, energetic, confident little dog. This breed needs strong, confident and consistent leadership. Without it, they are prone to Small Dog Syndrome, where the dog takes the position of pack leader over their owner. This syndrome can lead to behavioral issues including biting, food guarding, and dog-to-dog issues.

With correct leadership, the Westie can be an exceptional family dog. They are smart, like to learn, and love being around people. As a bonus, they can also make great watch dogs! They can do great in an apartment, if they are taken on daily walks and get plenty of exercise.

Toby, the Westie here in daycare, is exceptionally friendly with all the dogs and the staff. He's always on the move, and so far hasn't met a dog he doesn't like. Despite his small size he doesn't get scared off easily by the bigger dogs. He's a force to be reckoned with, that's for sure!

Weekly Awards

3 Peas in a Pod - Delanee, Bailee & Riley (Wheaton Terriers) (Photo by  Norka)

Sleepiest Puppies - Finn & Marley (Photo by Ally)

Cutest Class Couple - Bre & Sterling (Photo by Amy)

Most Ridiculous (In A Good Way) - Poppie(Photo by Norka)

Second Most Ridiculous (In A Good Way) - Coach (Photo by Norka)

Cutest Puppy Kiss - Dee (Photo by Summer)

February's Dog of the Month - Piper

Picking each month’s Dog of the Month winner can be a little arbitrary. Which dog sticks out the most in my mind? Was their a dog with a cute story or picture to highlight? This month, there was a clear winner…. Piper!

Piper first started daycare here in January. She didn’t particularly like any of the staff, and wanted very little to do with any of the dogs. She was happy to freeze her butt off outside by herself, or hide away in a corner under the A-frame.

Over the last 2 months we’ve seen daily improvement in her attitude her at daycare. She started spending more time out from under the stairs, mingling with the dogs. Then one day she came running up to one of the staff, jumping up and licking her face. We were shocked! She slowly started coming out of her shell, playing with other dogs, and making attempts to be friendly with us.

Today was her best day yet. She spent hours playing with 3 other dogs in the backyard. They completely ignored me when I tried to call them back inside. They raced and wrestled and never seemed to wear themselves out. We were so proud of her!

February's New Students

We gained 20 more students during February! We also had quite a few siblings join as well. Here's a tongue twister for you: Sisters Myla & Braylee joined us last week, and then  another set of sisters, Mia (pronounced Maya) and Bailey, started coming this week! Wow!

Reese- Poodle/Shih Tzu mix

Toby - Cockapoo

Jack - Black Lab mix

Roscoe - Great Pyrenees

Myla - Tibetan Terrier                            &                           Braylee - German Shepherd


Mamba - Boxer

Bruno - Vizsla/Goldendoodle

Puchis - Yorkshire Terrier/Poodle mix

Griffin - Australian Cattle Dog mix

Murphy - Black Lab mix

Mia - Siberian Husky                       &                             Bailey - Golden Retriever/Lab mix

Poppie - French Bulldog

Freddie - Terrier mix

Toby  - West Highland Terrier                         &                                Lane - Black Lab mix



Benji - Terrier mix

Louie - Pug                                      &                                        Oliver - Lab/Spaniel mix